Day 21 Del Rio, TX to Leakey, TX

Sorry for the late post, no internet in Leakey.

May 30

Del Rio, TX to Leakey, TX

105 Miles
3050 ft of climbing

Map:


http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1708


It's always tougher getting an early start when you wake up in a clean, air conditioned room.

We managed to roll out at a decent hour and headed next door for breakfast. What a great location for eating. Sirloin Stockade on one side and on the other a restaurant that was labeled with a giant sign reading "Pancakes". An omelet and a blueberry shortstack would make for adequate morning fuel. At the register, the cashier was aware they were on the route to Saint Augustine. When she found out about our mission, she gave us a discount on our breakfast. Thank you Sepa.

We continued on the route but somehow I missed the turn before downtown that would have bypassed Main Street. Maybe because I was looking for the bike shop listed on the map. We put our spare tire on Chris's bike the day before after yet another flat. I think that made six or seven and they were starting to come every day. I may have broken three spokes but I have not yet had a flat.

The shop was curiously under stocked for the items a touring cyclist would need. The guy at the counter didn't seem to know that they're on a mapped route. The waitress at breakfast knew more about the Southern Tier than the bike shop.

We left the shop and ended up riding right down Main Street, Del Rio. It had a very Mid-Western railroad town feeling.

We eventually found our way back to the route and had a tour of the town as a bonus. There actually is something fun about riding in a populated area after being in the bush for awhile.

It was hot, much more humid, and much greener than the ride to Del Rio. We rode past the Laughlin Airforce Base while what must have been a squadron of trainers were landing. When we rode under their glidepath they were only a couple of hundred feet above us.

We headed East almost directly into a light breeze of 10-15 MPH but with very little gusting. Some local cyclists we had met at a water stop on the Western edge of town the day before were right when they said there was a lot more vegetation heading East from Del Rio that would help break up the wind.

We arrived in Bracketville a few minutes before 2:00 PM and stopped first for water. I asked the cashier about a lunch spot and she recommended Julie's Café just down the road. It was still a little before 2:00 when I went to the door at the café to find it barred. A woman inside came to the door and said they were closed early for graduation. I put on a sad, hungry, and hot face (little effort required) and said, "thank you anyway". She said, "you can get something to go if you want". I said, "Thank you so much. We can sit out here in the sun and eat it if you don't mind." She looked outside and after a short pause said, "It's too hot for you to eat out there. Come on in and I'll fix you something." I thanked her profusely as did Chris when he came in a couple of minutes later and I explained the situation.

You were one of our heroes yesterday Josalyn. Thank you.

Josalyn explained that every high school in Texas was holding their graduation that night and everyone had a child or friend's child graduating and not much would be open anywhere. Everyone was closing early.

She said she and her husband were heading out on a three and a half hour drive to a graduation. I asked where and she said West out of Del Rio. She said the distances between gas where so great they had to get gas in Comstock (the last available going that direction for over a hundred miles). We noticed that the smallest stations, like Langtry, were only open 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM so its also a case of timing. I told her we rode through Comstock the day before and they only had diesel at Halley's (the only station there). The gasoline pumps were broken. She was extremely grateful for the information. It reminded me of the bar owner in Santa Rita (outside of Silver City) who told us the information we gave her about weather West of her was worth the cost of the sodas she gave us. Information about weather, food, lodging, and fuel is worth a lot out on the range where distances are great.

We headed North out of Bracketville with a very minor crosswind. Finally, after a week in the wind it was just us and the terrain again. The simple joy of it!

We rode through ranch land for awhile then we started to notice quite a few game ranches. In the town of Camp Wood we stopped for drinks. We had 22 miles or so to go to Leakey (pronounced lakey) and the route elevation profile showed a pretty stiff climb shortly after leaving town.

As we parked the bikes, a lady coming out told us to hurry, the owner's son was graduating and they were closing. This was at 7:00 PM so we were fortunate they were open at all.

We headed out for Leakey Mountain. Oh yes it was a climb. Steep with many spots at 15-17% but only going on two and a half or three miles.

Chris had been riding hard and struggling a bit in the heat and at a stop just before Camp Wood he didn't look so good and was feeling a bit off. One Red Bull later, at Camp Wood, and he crushed the last 22 miles. I think he got to Leakey 15 if not 20 minutes ahead of me.

There was a Lodge in the middle of town and it had an open restaurant to boot. We walked in at 8:50 or so and when we asked if we were in time for dinner a fellow, who turned out to be the owner, said, "if you hurry".

It was the healthiest dinner I've had since being on the road. The first broccoli, without cheese. I had to try a couple or three fried pickles though. Our waitress was right, they are good! We asked about a room and the waitress called Walter over to our table. He said he wasn't sure but he'd check.

After dinner, I walked to the office with Walter and we had a nice talk. He's put us in a really nice room and we had another great sleep.

I think we'll go on a bike ride tomorrow.