June 7
Shepherd, TX to Kirbyville, TX
93.5 Miles
1060 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1835
(cont.)
Happy birthday to Chris
Happy birthday to Chris
Happy birthday dear Chris
Happy birthday to Chris
It was another great day to ride. We decided to splurge and have breakfast at Happy Days Diner rather than a particularly thin looking lobby breakfast. Happy Days was a bit more what we are accustomed to than Sally's.
People ask what we're doing everywhere we go now. We've probably acquired an air of approachability. It's really nice.
In the parts of Texas we've been you always walk your check to the register. As I walked past a table, I stopped and talked with three older gentlemen. We had a very pleasant conversation. One fellow said, you know Kirbyville is where Walker Lumber started (I think it was Walker). I said, "I understand Kirbyville was the site of a showdown and gun battle between the Texas Rangers and two feuding families". He said, "yah, maybe, I guess, but it's where Walker started". I answered, "I didn't know that. I'll be darned".
Another of the men asked how we ended up at that diner because he knew it was a bit off the route. I told him about the hotel clerk's recommendation and how last night I stopped us at the first place that said diner. He smiled a knowing smile and said, "I'll bet this is more to your taste".
We are perpetually wet. We had some light showers fall on us a couple of times today. It's refreshing in the way a cool shower can be but there is no drying out. We are absolutely soaked all the time. When we go inside an air conditioned space it feels great for a minute but it's not long before we're shivering cold.
I don't know if we can really keep hydrating sufficiently. It doesn't seem possible considering sweat rate. I do notice I feel better keeping the electrolytes going too. Both of our organic machines are running strong and smoothly and the last two days have been good, fun, fast riding. Today we rode the last fifteen miles averaging better than eighteen miles per hour.
The wind continues to blow but we're only exposed to it ten percent or so of the time so it's not a significant factor. The rollers (hills) are now five feet of rise over a couple of hundred feet. So shallow it's just a gear or two. It's great riding in the big ring (the highest gear in the front) all day long. The bikes are working well too.
It's our last night in Texas. Ironically it's a dry county so no birthday beer.
When we got to the motel, I asked if they had a guest laundry. The woman at the desk said no and pointed me down the street. Chris and I showered and took our dirty clothes and walked. We could have ridden our bikes but our seats are so saturated with chamois cream and sweat, it's the last place I want to put my clean shorts (and self).
We got to the Laundromat at 7:50 to read a sign that said "doors locked at 7:45 PM". That meant we were too late when we got to town 6:30.
We decided to eat and figured we'd sink wash what we needed when we got back. On the way back from dinner I told Chris I'd go to ten bucks to use the machines they wash motel items with. He went and asked and our new friend Patel washed, dried, and folded our laundry for five bucks.
I think Texas is a good place to be from. It was a beautiful route with some excellent climbing and some of the nicest people in the country. They'll tell you that and then go on to prove it.
We're looking forward to the cultural change coming in Cajun country. I told Chris it will be even more wet with black water bayous lining the road.
We hit two thousand miles today. The next milestone is the border of Louisiana, twenty five miles away, then the Mississippi.
I was so glad to read a comment that my nieces are following our journey. From both of us, thank you all again for your support.
More fun tomorrow.
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Friday, June 6, 2008
Day 28 Navasota, TX to Shepherd, TX
June 6
Navasota, TX to Shepherd, TX
84.5 Miles
2910 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1834 (cont.)
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1835 (partial)
Happy birthday to Papa John, Grandpa, and tomorrow (June 7) to Chris.
Second, some really special people are posting comments and we thank you. I however, being the bonehead I sometimes am, didn't realize I had to check the blog for comments. I figured that out just a couple of days ago. I thought comments were also e-mailed to me. Every comment is precious to us and I read them all to Chris and introduce him to those of you he hasn't met.
On to our day.
It was a great day to ride. We have yet to meet anyone who would agree. Ninety eight degrees and eighty eight percent humidity. Fluids in, fluids out.
Breakfast in the hotel is definitely the quickest getaway. Cereal, banana, eggs, and a biscuit. Perfect with OJ. Oh, and coffee of course.
We rode into a great pine forest of Sam Houston National Forest soon after we started. If there was wind we'd never know it. Very dense stands of pine that apparently go on for a hundred miles. II think it may be part of what's called "The Big Thicket".
The road was good but without shoulders. That can be a bit unnerving. Most drivers coming from behind moved completely over into the oncoming traffic lane. I will ALWAYS do that for touring cyclists in the future. I wouldn't expect that kind of exaggerated courtesy on a road bike but the touring bikes are anything but nimble and I will be forever cognizant of that in the future.
I was aware I had broken yet another spoke about a mile after we started but couldn't bear to stop. We felt great and the riding was glorious.
We came to a railroad crossing just as the train was coming and I took the opportunity to evaluate my rear wheel. It was a driveside spoke this time. A bit more significant because they are more highly tensioned than the opposite side. I needed a one inch wrench to turn the special tool which I had picked up at Bike Den in Glendale. I hadn't had a chance to get the wrench. The special tool lets you remove the gear cluster which covers access to the driveside spokes (you should really remove the cassette to reach spokes on either side but I've been lazy about that).
We had twenty three miles
to go. I slacked the brake so it wouldn't drag with the rim wobble and off we went.
We got to New Waverly and rode right up to the busiest and possibly only lunch restaurant in town. It was cafeteria style but very efficient and very good. Pork chops, mashed potato, cornbread casserole, pinto beans, a salad, yes salad, and a slice of pie. All really good and for seven bucks.
I ate big knowing we were churning out the watts and we weren't sure about dinner options. It was rolling hills all day but none of them with any sting. We finally averaged over fifteen miles per hour again. It would be closer to nineteen miles per hour on a seventeen pound bike.
Something I look forward to is letting Chris ride my beloved and semi retired Lemond Maillot Jeune while I ride my Seven up some New Mexico mountains.
After lunch, on the way out of town, we found an auto parts store and I picked up a wrench. The spoke was pretty quick work and off we went.
It was very damp and we rode through occasional light showers and over quite a bit of blacktop that was very wet from cloudbursts just ahead of us. This went on for thirty miles. The further in front of us the rain got, the more steam rose as the pavement heated. It was the coolest sight and when we'd ride through a cloud of steam it felt five degrees hotter.
We made our way to Lake Livingston, which looked huge on the map, and through Coldspring. We got to Shepherd and were presented a conundrum. Fifty more miles to a place to stay and likely no open services in between or stop feeling good at eighty five miles. We'd have to deal with dinner too.
As we cooled down and drank up at the gas station a number of cars came and went. It was just after five and we figured everyone was getting off of work on a Friday night.
A beat up car limped up and killed the engine, or rather the engine died. A fellow got out of the back seat and gave us a friendly hello on his way inside the store. There were three little boys left in the car and a woman behind the wheel. One of the boys started talking to us right away. His brothers listened and started asking their own questions. The lady driving joined in. They were very pleasant and inquisitive. We told them what we were doing and how we were raising money for Lance Armstrong Foundation. I kept it light and upbeat with the boys. When the man came out (dad I think) he handed me three dollars and pointed to the driver (his mother I think) and said, "she wants you to take that, she wants to help". I said, "that's not necessary, are you sure?" she leaned over and said, "it's not much at all but I want to help". Three dollars meant something to these people. I am certain that's true. What can you think but god bless these people?
It is speaking to each other in the common language of an evolved humanity.
Compassion.
We decided to stop for the night. We're at nineteen hundred miles and I can begin to see the finish. Eleven hundred to go but barring injury or mishap, I think we're likely to finish. We're both really conscious of savoring it.
We found a motel (the motel) and asked about dinner spots. The woman at the front desk recommended a couple of places and I have to admit I was concentrating more on food than what she was saying.
We rode down the highway as she had directed and we stopped at the first place we saw. Sally's Diner. Only after sitting down and ordering drinks did I realize we were in the wrong place. We were recommended to Happy Days Diner. In an illustrated dictionary Sally's would be an ideal candidate for greasy spoon. Emphasis on greasy.
I actually proposed to Chris that we pay for our drinks and leave. We decided to order burgers.
As we finished our dinner, a couple sat down next to us (father and daughter I think) and then a man by himself sat at the next table over. It sometimes takes a woman or a child to establish contact but the men are fast to follow.
We ended up shooting the breeze for another twenty minutes with the three of them. It was really great conversation. Living in the most egocentric part of Southern California for ten years I have become accustomed to people who prefer the sound of their own voice to having a conversation. I don't think conversation is a lost practice. All participants just have to enjoy listening.
We returned to the motel and enjoyed some Shiner Bock.
My big heroes today are Simon (Chris's brother) and Ashleigh and Justin. They are driving to California as we speak to bring my camper trailer home. It was in the driveway of our California house which closes escrow Monday.
Thank you guys!
More adventures tomorrow.
Navasota, TX to Shepherd, TX
84.5 Miles
2910 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1834 (cont.)
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1835 (partial)
Happy birthday to Papa John, Grandpa, and tomorrow (June 7) to Chris.
Second, some really special people are posting comments and we thank you. I however, being the bonehead I sometimes am, didn't realize I had to check the blog for comments. I figured that out just a couple of days ago. I thought comments were also e-mailed to me. Every comment is precious to us and I read them all to Chris and introduce him to those of you he hasn't met.
On to our day.
It was a great day to ride. We have yet to meet anyone who would agree. Ninety eight degrees and eighty eight percent humidity. Fluids in, fluids out.
Breakfast in the hotel is definitely the quickest getaway. Cereal, banana, eggs, and a biscuit. Perfect with OJ. Oh, and coffee of course.
We rode into a great pine forest of Sam Houston National Forest soon after we started. If there was wind we'd never know it. Very dense stands of pine that apparently go on for a hundred miles. II think it may be part of what's called "The Big Thicket".
The road was good but without shoulders. That can be a bit unnerving. Most drivers coming from behind moved completely over into the oncoming traffic lane. I will ALWAYS do that for touring cyclists in the future. I wouldn't expect that kind of exaggerated courtesy on a road bike but the touring bikes are anything but nimble and I will be forever cognizant of that in the future.
I was aware I had broken yet another spoke about a mile after we started but couldn't bear to stop. We felt great and the riding was glorious.
We came to a railroad crossing just as the train was coming and I took the opportunity to evaluate my rear wheel. It was a driveside spoke this time. A bit more significant because they are more highly tensioned than the opposite side. I needed a one inch wrench to turn the special tool which I had picked up at Bike Den in Glendale. I hadn't had a chance to get the wrench. The special tool lets you remove the gear cluster which covers access to the driveside spokes (you should really remove the cassette to reach spokes on either side but I've been lazy about that).
We had twenty three miles
to go. I slacked the brake so it wouldn't drag with the rim wobble and off we went.
We got to New Waverly and rode right up to the busiest and possibly only lunch restaurant in town. It was cafeteria style but very efficient and very good. Pork chops, mashed potato, cornbread casserole, pinto beans, a salad, yes salad, and a slice of pie. All really good and for seven bucks.
I ate big knowing we were churning out the watts and we weren't sure about dinner options. It was rolling hills all day but none of them with any sting. We finally averaged over fifteen miles per hour again. It would be closer to nineteen miles per hour on a seventeen pound bike.
Something I look forward to is letting Chris ride my beloved and semi retired Lemond Maillot Jeune while I ride my Seven up some New Mexico mountains.
After lunch, on the way out of town, we found an auto parts store and I picked up a wrench. The spoke was pretty quick work and off we went.
It was very damp and we rode through occasional light showers and over quite a bit of blacktop that was very wet from cloudbursts just ahead of us. This went on for thirty miles. The further in front of us the rain got, the more steam rose as the pavement heated. It was the coolest sight and when we'd ride through a cloud of steam it felt five degrees hotter.
We made our way to Lake Livingston, which looked huge on the map, and through Coldspring. We got to Shepherd and were presented a conundrum. Fifty more miles to a place to stay and likely no open services in between or stop feeling good at eighty five miles. We'd have to deal with dinner too.
As we cooled down and drank up at the gas station a number of cars came and went. It was just after five and we figured everyone was getting off of work on a Friday night.
A beat up car limped up and killed the engine, or rather the engine died. A fellow got out of the back seat and gave us a friendly hello on his way inside the store. There were three little boys left in the car and a woman behind the wheel. One of the boys started talking to us right away. His brothers listened and started asking their own questions. The lady driving joined in. They were very pleasant and inquisitive. We told them what we were doing and how we were raising money for Lance Armstrong Foundation. I kept it light and upbeat with the boys. When the man came out (dad I think) he handed me three dollars and pointed to the driver (his mother I think) and said, "she wants you to take that, she wants to help". I said, "that's not necessary, are you sure?" she leaned over and said, "it's not much at all but I want to help". Three dollars meant something to these people. I am certain that's true. What can you think but god bless these people?
It is speaking to each other in the common language of an evolved humanity.
Compassion.
We decided to stop for the night. We're at nineteen hundred miles and I can begin to see the finish. Eleven hundred to go but barring injury or mishap, I think we're likely to finish. We're both really conscious of savoring it.
We found a motel (the motel) and asked about dinner spots. The woman at the front desk recommended a couple of places and I have to admit I was concentrating more on food than what she was saying.
We rode down the highway as she had directed and we stopped at the first place we saw. Sally's Diner. Only after sitting down and ordering drinks did I realize we were in the wrong place. We were recommended to Happy Days Diner. In an illustrated dictionary Sally's would be an ideal candidate for greasy spoon. Emphasis on greasy.
I actually proposed to Chris that we pay for our drinks and leave. We decided to order burgers.
As we finished our dinner, a couple sat down next to us (father and daughter I think) and then a man by himself sat at the next table over. It sometimes takes a woman or a child to establish contact but the men are fast to follow.
We ended up shooting the breeze for another twenty minutes with the three of them. It was really great conversation. Living in the most egocentric part of Southern California for ten years I have become accustomed to people who prefer the sound of their own voice to having a conversation. I don't think conversation is a lost practice. All participants just have to enjoy listening.
We returned to the motel and enjoyed some Shiner Bock.
My big heroes today are Simon (Chris's brother) and Ashleigh and Justin. They are driving to California as we speak to bring my camper trailer home. It was in the driveway of our California house which closes escrow Monday.
Thank you guys!
More adventures tomorrow.
Day 27 Round Top, TX to Navasota, TX
June 5
Round Top, TX to Navasota, TX
60.5 Miles
2950 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1834
We felt such gratitude today we wanted to thank everyone who sends us notes or comments on the blogsite. Each and every one means allot to us. Chris and I agree my cousin Tom is our missing rider. We both want to go for a ride with you Tom. We might get to do it with my friend Michael. I think he might join us in Alabama and ride with us for a couple of days. We agreed we'll be wheel suckers and then figured it will probably be a dead calm. A wheel sucker is someone who always rides in the draft and never does any work.
It was a great beginning to the day. I set my alarm and did a little writing. We had breakfast at 8:00 and coffee a little before. We figured we'd get an early start.
We went in the ranch house at the Outpost and sat at the kitchen bar. It was just the four of us. Lenore is a very gracious host. When I attempted to compensate her for the accomodations she refused all but a pitance for the cleaning lady. It turns out she's coming to Santa Fe for the opera later in the summer. I hope she gets in touch.
We talked about serendipity and how our ride seems to often be the beneficiary. The world is full of kind and decent people. It's a pleasure to meet so many of them on this adventure. It amazes both Chris and I and we marvel thankfully.
We headed out in a very stiff wind blowing 25-30 MPH. It blowed all day long. Wah, wah. It wasn't in our faces but it was a cross wind in the best case and came at our two o'clock most of the time. It kept things hard and slow.
We came to Independence, TX and stopped for lunch. The man at the general store, lunch counter asked if we were cross country riders. When we told him we were he handed us a log he keeps and asked us to sign it. It was fun reading other riders' entries. There is a Dutch family about two weeks ahead of us. They are travelling with two young children. We figure if they're heading to St. Augustine (they didn't mention their direction) we would probably catch them.
We got to a town called Washington and filled up with water and gatorade. Our hostess Tina wanted to hear about our ride. We pulled out the maps and took a look at what lay ahead. When we hit 1800 miles today we moved on to Map Segment five of seven. We originally intended to go to Coldspring but it would be much too late for dinner or laundry when we got there. Now the problem becomes riding in the heat after the places in these small towns have closed. There are more towns than West Texas but they roll the streets up early and we consume water at a ridiculous rate requiring refilling evey twenty five miles or so. We decided to stop while we could eat and launder and watch the first game of the NBA finals.
Mission accomplished.
More to come.
Round Top, TX to Navasota, TX
60.5 Miles
2950 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1834
We felt such gratitude today we wanted to thank everyone who sends us notes or comments on the blogsite. Each and every one means allot to us. Chris and I agree my cousin Tom is our missing rider. We both want to go for a ride with you Tom. We might get to do it with my friend Michael. I think he might join us in Alabama and ride with us for a couple of days. We agreed we'll be wheel suckers and then figured it will probably be a dead calm. A wheel sucker is someone who always rides in the draft and never does any work.
It was a great beginning to the day. I set my alarm and did a little writing. We had breakfast at 8:00 and coffee a little before. We figured we'd get an early start.
We went in the ranch house at the Outpost and sat at the kitchen bar. It was just the four of us. Lenore is a very gracious host. When I attempted to compensate her for the accomodations she refused all but a pitance for the cleaning lady. It turns out she's coming to Santa Fe for the opera later in the summer. I hope she gets in touch.
We talked about serendipity and how our ride seems to often be the beneficiary. The world is full of kind and decent people. It's a pleasure to meet so many of them on this adventure. It amazes both Chris and I and we marvel thankfully.
We headed out in a very stiff wind blowing 25-30 MPH. It blowed all day long. Wah, wah. It wasn't in our faces but it was a cross wind in the best case and came at our two o'clock most of the time. It kept things hard and slow.
We came to Independence, TX and stopped for lunch. The man at the general store, lunch counter asked if we were cross country riders. When we told him we were he handed us a log he keeps and asked us to sign it. It was fun reading other riders' entries. There is a Dutch family about two weeks ahead of us. They are travelling with two young children. We figure if they're heading to St. Augustine (they didn't mention their direction) we would probably catch them.
We got to a town called Washington and filled up with water and gatorade. Our hostess Tina wanted to hear about our ride. We pulled out the maps and took a look at what lay ahead. When we hit 1800 miles today we moved on to Map Segment five of seven. We originally intended to go to Coldspring but it would be much too late for dinner or laundry when we got there. Now the problem becomes riding in the heat after the places in these small towns have closed. There are more towns than West Texas but they roll the streets up early and we consume water at a ridiculous rate requiring refilling evey twenty five miles or so. We decided to stop while we could eat and launder and watch the first game of the NBA finals.
Mission accomplished.
More to come.
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Day 26 Austin, TX to Round Top, TX
June 4
Austin, TX to Round Top, TX
99.5 Miles
4320 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1833
Our day started with saying goodbye to Ash and Justin. We had a nice breakfast and then they took our picture and sent us off. They spent the rest of the day at the thrift shops on South Congress. Then I think they were going to Leakey to spend the night at the Frio Canyon Lodge. It would be cool if they did.
It was a hot, humid, and windy day. The wind was in our faces most of the day but it's true that the trees help break it up. In clearings you feel how much worse it could be were it not for the forest.
We often have people mention to us that it has been unseasonably hot by ten or more degrees since we arrived in Texas. It's comforting to hear the research was valid.
It has been hot!
The humidity is in the eighty five percent range with the temperature in the mid to high nineties. Wednesday was partly cloudy and that helped keep the sun off of us.
Chris is kind of fair and uses SPF 50 sunscreen. He reapplies it every hour and a half as recommended. The other day he actually started
foaming from all the sweat and sunscreen.
We thoroughly soak every item we're wearing within twenty minutes of starting. Our sweat rate is tremendous. When we are consuming water at a particularly high rate due to sweat loss (a liter and a half or more per hour) we supplement with electrolyte capsules containing Sodium, Potassium, Calcium, B-6, manganese, magnesium, and a couple of other compounds. We also tend to salt our food pretty heavily.
On a day we chalk up eight hours of riding we'll each go through as much as twelve liters of fluid.
We rode out of Austin to the Southeast and eventually made our way to Bastrop State Park. There, the map directed us to pay the entrance fee and ride in. It was thirteen miles of well maintained road through a beautiful pine and cedar forest. It's connected to Buescher State Park which we exited from. We saw a total of three cars in the thirteen miles and those were in the last couple. What a great route.
We rode down to La Grange, which is a town of forty seven hundred people or so. It was a kind of cool looking place complete with a train station. I hope we get to return to Santa Fe by train. That's our hope but the routing is going to be tricky. We'll see.
The ride from La Grange was more beautiful Texas hillside.
The antiques began around Winchester. Apparently this is a very hot area for antiquing with a giant annual festival centered in Round Top.
As we got close to Round Top it was a little before 8:00 PM and we decided to stop for dinner. We were feeling pretty good and thought we'd go a little further than our planned overnight stop there. We thought we'd head for Burton where there was an Inn listed on the map.
We had a good dinner at Klump's, a great family place, and actually got to have something pretty healthy. The positive of the chicken entree was more than made up for with our appetizers. Fried crawfish tails (I didn't expect them to be fried but boy were they good) and corn puffs which were essentially deep fried creamed corn (I did expect them to be fried and they were excellent).
Before we hit the road I thought it prudent to give the Inn at Burton a call. The phone was answered after several rings by a man who told me they he would like to accommodate us but he was out of town and the Inn was closed. As far as we could determine it was the only possibility in Burton. He told us our best bet was Round Top. We decided to stick to the original plan and find a place to stay in Round Top. Easier said than done.
I began calling numbers to have my calls picked up by answering machines. As we were striking out, a woman and her family came out of the restaurant. She asked about our ride and then about where we were planning to spend the night. She told us the accommodations in Round Top were exclusively Bed and Breakfasts and arrangements had to be made in advance because many of the owners don't live on the properties where they rent rooms or their businesses are hobbies.
She told us she was sleeping on the floor of her unfinished house and her brother was visiting and camping there. She apologized for not having a place to offer us. She made a recommendation or two but was not very hopeful. She directed us to a wine bar and cigar shop down the street where there might be some locals who knew of something.
We rode over and parked the bikes outside. We went in the wine bar and I asked the bartender if by chance he knew where we might find a room for the night. He said that there happened to be a woman who had just been there that operated a B&B and maybe we could catch her. He ran outside to find her sitting at a table, having a glass of wine, and briefly explained our situation.
She stood up and asked us a couple of questions. Where we were coming from, where we were going, how we ended up without a place to stay, things like that. She explained she had a place six miles outside of town called Outpost at Cedar Creek, (which it turns out is listed in the book of One Thousand Places to See Before You Die).
She said she could put us in a cabin if we liked. I felt bad interrupting her evening but she was happy to help us. I introduced us and she introduced herself as Lenore.
There was a fellow with her that assists with the B&B. He said he would go and get things ready. Not wanting there to be any confusion later I asked what the cost would be. She said, "I knew you were going to ask that. The rate is normally $175 a night but you can pay me what you want". The fellow with her, who later introduced himself as Danny, offered to put our bikes in his truck and give us a ride. We both appreciated it when he accepted and understood our desire to cover every inch on two wheels and in nothing with a motor. He went ahead to turn on lights and air conditioning. Lenore asked what time we'd like to have breakfast and gave us directions.
We have nice bright taillights and decent headlights but I brought a headmounted LED light that works very well for signs. As we headed out on the farmroad I was checking mileage and signage whenever we passed a road or driveway.
As I thought we were closing in on our turn, a motorcycle came down the road toward us. It slowed and we saw it was Danny. He turned the bike around and lead the way. It was a huge help. The last few hundred yards are dirt then gravel and his light was much better than ours.
Thanks Danny!
We got to the property and as we rode in I could see it was something special. Danny took us to the cabin and showed us the kitchen and TV room and gave us ice cold water. Instant comfort.
The cabin was fantastic. Beautifully decorated to the smallest detail. I understood Lenore to say she and Danny had been restoring it for the last fifteen years. I can absolutely believe it. It is a gorgeous and extremely comfortable place I could easily spend a couple of days. If you do the antiquing thing then there's no better place than Round top and no better place to stay than Outpost.
Lenore Prud'Homme you are our hero of the day!
Does my gratitude show?
More adventure tomorrow.
Oh, I think I called Judge Roy Bean the law West of the Mississippi. It was of course the Pecos. There is an example of the kind of things you think about when your riding. The more arcane the better.
Austin, TX to Round Top, TX
99.5 Miles
4320 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1833
Our day started with saying goodbye to Ash and Justin. We had a nice breakfast and then they took our picture and sent us off. They spent the rest of the day at the thrift shops on South Congress. Then I think they were going to Leakey to spend the night at the Frio Canyon Lodge. It would be cool if they did.
It was a hot, humid, and windy day. The wind was in our faces most of the day but it's true that the trees help break it up. In clearings you feel how much worse it could be were it not for the forest.
We often have people mention to us that it has been unseasonably hot by ten or more degrees since we arrived in Texas. It's comforting to hear the research was valid.
It has been hot!
The humidity is in the eighty five percent range with the temperature in the mid to high nineties. Wednesday was partly cloudy and that helped keep the sun off of us.
Chris is kind of fair and uses SPF 50 sunscreen. He reapplies it every hour and a half as recommended. The other day he actually started
foaming from all the sweat and sunscreen.
We thoroughly soak every item we're wearing within twenty minutes of starting. Our sweat rate is tremendous. When we are consuming water at a particularly high rate due to sweat loss (a liter and a half or more per hour) we supplement with electrolyte capsules containing Sodium, Potassium, Calcium, B-6, manganese, magnesium, and a couple of other compounds. We also tend to salt our food pretty heavily.
On a day we chalk up eight hours of riding we'll each go through as much as twelve liters of fluid.
We rode out of Austin to the Southeast and eventually made our way to Bastrop State Park. There, the map directed us to pay the entrance fee and ride in. It was thirteen miles of well maintained road through a beautiful pine and cedar forest. It's connected to Buescher State Park which we exited from. We saw a total of three cars in the thirteen miles and those were in the last couple. What a great route.
We rode down to La Grange, which is a town of forty seven hundred people or so. It was a kind of cool looking place complete with a train station. I hope we get to return to Santa Fe by train. That's our hope but the routing is going to be tricky. We'll see.
The ride from La Grange was more beautiful Texas hillside.
The antiques began around Winchester. Apparently this is a very hot area for antiquing with a giant annual festival centered in Round Top.
As we got close to Round Top it was a little before 8:00 PM and we decided to stop for dinner. We were feeling pretty good and thought we'd go a little further than our planned overnight stop there. We thought we'd head for Burton where there was an Inn listed on the map.
We had a good dinner at Klump's, a great family place, and actually got to have something pretty healthy. The positive of the chicken entree was more than made up for with our appetizers. Fried crawfish tails (I didn't expect them to be fried but boy were they good) and corn puffs which were essentially deep fried creamed corn (I did expect them to be fried and they were excellent).
Before we hit the road I thought it prudent to give the Inn at Burton a call. The phone was answered after several rings by a man who told me they he would like to accommodate us but he was out of town and the Inn was closed. As far as we could determine it was the only possibility in Burton. He told us our best bet was Round Top. We decided to stick to the original plan and find a place to stay in Round Top. Easier said than done.
I began calling numbers to have my calls picked up by answering machines. As we were striking out, a woman and her family came out of the restaurant. She asked about our ride and then about where we were planning to spend the night. She told us the accommodations in Round Top were exclusively Bed and Breakfasts and arrangements had to be made in advance because many of the owners don't live on the properties where they rent rooms or their businesses are hobbies.
She told us she was sleeping on the floor of her unfinished house and her brother was visiting and camping there. She apologized for not having a place to offer us. She made a recommendation or two but was not very hopeful. She directed us to a wine bar and cigar shop down the street where there might be some locals who knew of something.
We rode over and parked the bikes outside. We went in the wine bar and I asked the bartender if by chance he knew where we might find a room for the night. He said that there happened to be a woman who had just been there that operated a B&B and maybe we could catch her. He ran outside to find her sitting at a table, having a glass of wine, and briefly explained our situation.
She stood up and asked us a couple of questions. Where we were coming from, where we were going, how we ended up without a place to stay, things like that. She explained she had a place six miles outside of town called Outpost at Cedar Creek, (which it turns out is listed in the book of One Thousand Places to See Before You Die).
She said she could put us in a cabin if we liked. I felt bad interrupting her evening but she was happy to help us. I introduced us and she introduced herself as Lenore.
There was a fellow with her that assists with the B&B. He said he would go and get things ready. Not wanting there to be any confusion later I asked what the cost would be. She said, "I knew you were going to ask that. The rate is normally $175 a night but you can pay me what you want". The fellow with her, who later introduced himself as Danny, offered to put our bikes in his truck and give us a ride. We both appreciated it when he accepted and understood our desire to cover every inch on two wheels and in nothing with a motor. He went ahead to turn on lights and air conditioning. Lenore asked what time we'd like to have breakfast and gave us directions.
We have nice bright taillights and decent headlights but I brought a headmounted LED light that works very well for signs. As we headed out on the farmroad I was checking mileage and signage whenever we passed a road or driveway.
As I thought we were closing in on our turn, a motorcycle came down the road toward us. It slowed and we saw it was Danny. He turned the bike around and lead the way. It was a huge help. The last few hundred yards are dirt then gravel and his light was much better than ours.
Thanks Danny!
We got to the property and as we rode in I could see it was something special. Danny took us to the cabin and showed us the kitchen and TV room and gave us ice cold water. Instant comfort.
The cabin was fantastic. Beautifully decorated to the smallest detail. I understood Lenore to say she and Danny had been restoring it for the last fifteen years. I can absolutely believe it. It is a gorgeous and extremely comfortable place I could easily spend a couple of days. If you do the antiquing thing then there's no better place than Round top and no better place to stay than Outpost.
Lenore Prud'Homme you are our hero of the day!
Does my gratitude show?
More adventure tomorrow.
Oh, I think I called Judge Roy Bean the law West of the Mississippi. It was of course the Pecos. There is an example of the kind of things you think about when your riding. The more arcane the better.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Day 24 and 25 Austin, TX rest days
June 2,3
Austin, TX Rest Days
Austin is a great town. We all slept in Monday and didn't make it out until lunchtime. We stayed downtown and everything was an easy walk for us.
I woke up a little before lunch and went downstairs for a Café Americano at Drogo's. What a great cup Carlos and his crew make. Carlos is a very nice guy too. I recommend a visit there for your caffeine fix if you ever find yourself in Austin. You can ask if Chance has begun his trek to meet Pete Seger.
We spent Monday walking , shopping, and eating. In the evening, we started with a fantastic seafood dinner at Trulucks and then headed up to 6th street for some live music. Around 11:00 we wound up in a karaoke bar and that was all for me.
I made my wake up calls to the kids Tuesday and we headed out to have lunch with Halley Sinclair of Lance Armstrong Foundation. We met her at Lambert's, for BBQ and had a very nice and tasty meal.
After lunch Halley took us to her office for a tour. The people at LAF are very nice and it was a great experience getting a chance to see the operation and meet some of the staff.
Thank you Halley and LAF!!
After our visit, Ashleigh and Chris and I headed over to Lance's new bike shop. It's called, "Mellow Johnny's". A play on the words, "Maillot Jeune", meaning yellow jersey which is worn by the overall leader of the Tour de France. Mellow Johnny is a nickname a friend of Armstrong's stuck on him. I think there's a bit of sarcasm associated with the moniker. You can only be so mellow and be a seven time tour winner.
After the bike shop I headed to Milk + Honey Spa for a massage. What a great idea. Colleen prepared me well for some more riding.
We wrapped up our evening with dinner at Moonshine and made it an early night.
We all really enjoyed being there and I will definitely be back.
The best part was seeing Ashleigh. What I miss most, by far, is seeing my kids. I think about Jonathon and Ashleigh quite a bit on the road.
This morning it's back to it. We have 14 or 15 more pedaling days and our next scheduled stop will be Dauphine Island in Mobile Bay. Weather, or injury, is all that will slow us down.
More to come.
Austin, TX Rest Days
Austin is a great town. We all slept in Monday and didn't make it out until lunchtime. We stayed downtown and everything was an easy walk for us.
I woke up a little before lunch and went downstairs for a Café Americano at Drogo's. What a great cup Carlos and his crew make. Carlos is a very nice guy too. I recommend a visit there for your caffeine fix if you ever find yourself in Austin. You can ask if Chance has begun his trek to meet Pete Seger.
We spent Monday walking , shopping, and eating. In the evening, we started with a fantastic seafood dinner at Trulucks and then headed up to 6th street for some live music. Around 11:00 we wound up in a karaoke bar and that was all for me.
I made my wake up calls to the kids Tuesday and we headed out to have lunch with Halley Sinclair of Lance Armstrong Foundation. We met her at Lambert's, for BBQ and had a very nice and tasty meal.
After lunch Halley took us to her office for a tour. The people at LAF are very nice and it was a great experience getting a chance to see the operation and meet some of the staff.
Thank you Halley and LAF!!
After our visit, Ashleigh and Chris and I headed over to Lance's new bike shop. It's called, "Mellow Johnny's". A play on the words, "Maillot Jeune", meaning yellow jersey which is worn by the overall leader of the Tour de France. Mellow Johnny is a nickname a friend of Armstrong's stuck on him. I think there's a bit of sarcasm associated with the moniker. You can only be so mellow and be a seven time tour winner.
After the bike shop I headed to Milk + Honey Spa for a massage. What a great idea. Colleen prepared me well for some more riding.
We wrapped up our evening with dinner at Moonshine and made it an early night.
We all really enjoyed being there and I will definitely be back.
The best part was seeing Ashleigh. What I miss most, by far, is seeing my kids. I think about Jonathon and Ashleigh quite a bit on the road.
This morning it's back to it. We have 14 or 15 more pedaling days and our next scheduled stop will be Dauphine Island in Mobile Bay. Weather, or injury, is all that will slow us down.
More to come.
Monday, June 2, 2008
Day 23 Comfort, TX to Austin, TX
June 1
Comfort, TX to Austin, TX
109.5 Miles
4450 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1721
As the number of days between rests grow we seem to get out later and later. I'm really the one responsible. Chris can be up and out in minutes. I usually wake up and write for an hour before I wake him up. Sunday was day six without a break and we've been rocking the miles. 534 in six days. Not bad considering we took a beating from the wind on two of them and rode through Texas Hill Country the last three.
We rolled out of the motel parking lot at 9:30 AM or so and headed down to the Double D Restaurant. Sunday breakfast buffet. Bonus. I limited myself to fried eggs, scrambled eggs, potatoes, grits, pancakes, french toast, and even a piece of bacon. In anticipation of rest days in Austin I'm ratcheting the meat quota down. I've had more beef in the last seven days than the last seven years. You've got to get your protein where and as you can and chicken isn't a menu regular in the spots we've been eating unless it's fried.
We were seated next to a woman who was dining with two gentlemen. She looked over and asked if we were in a race or something. We told her about the ride and why we wore the Livestrong gear. I think I mentioned this before, but I parcel out the story bit by bit making sure I have the listener's interest. I told our story and seeing that all three were interested I told them about Deidre. It's like our doctor told us February 28, 1998. "Welcome to the club you never wanted to be a member of". It turns out that the woman's husband has a sister named Deidre. It's a small, weird, interconnected word.
One of the men, the more reticent of the two, was the woman's brother. He is currently receiving chemotherapy for invasive lung cancer. These kinds of meetings are profound for me. The cancer sufferer generally knows the score. When I talk about Deidre they sense I know the score too. I love them all.
It was time to get eating and it was time for our new friends from Sedona to start their day. We all got up to say goodbye and the woman came up to me and gave me a big warm hug. Her brother had walked to the door and she and I looked in each others eyes in that knowing way and I told her I wished her brother well and would be thinking of him. Friends and family need a different kind of support than the cancer survivor does.
I started the ride on an emotional high.
We finished eating and rolled out for another hot, hilly, and long day. We weren't concerned with our arrival time because we knew we had rooms and knew we would be able to find food in Austin late.
We started slowly and for the first part of the ride we took every chance to stop for cold drinks. We've been going through between six and eight liters daily and it's best but rarely cold.
We pulled into a little town called Sisterdale and stopped at the only place that appeared to have a cold drink. It was a bar with a cooler full of Gatorade. We each grabbed a bottle and went out front. There's a kind of motorcycle often referred to as a crotch rocket that is more road racer than chopper. There was a beautiful metallic maroon Suzuki 1300 with a sticker saying "Suicidal Tendencies" (the names of both a band and an attitude) parked out front. It was more a crotch missile. After a couple of minutes, a man came out of the bar and sat down with a cold one. He was a very serious and large guy. He was wearing a don't bother me expression and I was happy to honor it.
As we stood there with our drinks, an amazing scene played out. From our left, a man came running down the road next to a little girl on a new bicycle learning to ride for the first time. Her dad was hands off and you could see at that moment that she was getting it. It really is magical when you think about how the world is about to become bigger for a new young rider.
The little girl looked over at us and stared at our bikes and fashion choices. I gave her a big atta girl, two big thumbs up, and hollered at her to look where she was going. When she looked back to her left she steered left and dad was there to catch her. I applauded and then Chris joined in followed by the motorcyclist and her dad. It was joy for her and memories of the same joy for the rest of us. Her dad turned her around and they started down the road the other direction.
As Chris and I got ready to leave, the motorcyclist looked up and nodded a greeting. I said, "is that your ride?", nodding to the missile. He said, "yeah". I said, "that is a fine ride you've got there". He said, "it beats pedaling", in a deadpan. I said, "yeah, but the scenery goes by allot faster for you". He smiled and said, "you're right about that".
We began talking him about our ride. He was very interested and when he heard we were using the ride to do some good and raise some money for LAF's efforts at helping survivors he pulled out his wallet and grabbed a twenty dollar bill that he insisted we take. I said, "we aren't really prepared to accept cash contributions (the third time I've said tat so far). He insisted saying, "then buy yourselves some Gatorade or something. I want to help". I thanked him and introduced myself. He shook my hand and introduced himself as Fred. Not wanting to disappoint a man of Fred's stature I accepted the contribution. What we had during that experience were two of the most powerful elements for bringing people together. Youthful innocence and charitable efforts.
Thank you Fred!
Our meeting ended with Fred telling us we had allot more guts (he used a different word) than he did.
The rest of the ride was long and hot but I was heavily dosed on Karmic painkillers.
We pulled into the hotel lobby a little after 10:00 PM. We showered up and headed across the street for dinner. Ashleigh and Justin arrived at the hotel about ten minutes later and came and met us for dinner.
Yahoo! We're in Austin. Two full days off, 1667 miles of riding, over 58,000 feet of climbing and past halfway.
Maybe a massage later.
Comfort, TX to Austin, TX
109.5 Miles
4450 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1721
As the number of days between rests grow we seem to get out later and later. I'm really the one responsible. Chris can be up and out in minutes. I usually wake up and write for an hour before I wake him up. Sunday was day six without a break and we've been rocking the miles. 534 in six days. Not bad considering we took a beating from the wind on two of them and rode through Texas Hill Country the last three.
We rolled out of the motel parking lot at 9:30 AM or so and headed down to the Double D Restaurant. Sunday breakfast buffet. Bonus. I limited myself to fried eggs, scrambled eggs, potatoes, grits, pancakes, french toast, and even a piece of bacon. In anticipation of rest days in Austin I'm ratcheting the meat quota down. I've had more beef in the last seven days than the last seven years. You've got to get your protein where and as you can and chicken isn't a menu regular in the spots we've been eating unless it's fried.
We were seated next to a woman who was dining with two gentlemen. She looked over and asked if we were in a race or something. We told her about the ride and why we wore the Livestrong gear. I think I mentioned this before, but I parcel out the story bit by bit making sure I have the listener's interest. I told our story and seeing that all three were interested I told them about Deidre. It's like our doctor told us February 28, 1998. "Welcome to the club you never wanted to be a member of". It turns out that the woman's husband has a sister named Deidre. It's a small, weird, interconnected word.
One of the men, the more reticent of the two, was the woman's brother. He is currently receiving chemotherapy for invasive lung cancer. These kinds of meetings are profound for me. The cancer sufferer generally knows the score. When I talk about Deidre they sense I know the score too. I love them all.
It was time to get eating and it was time for our new friends from Sedona to start their day. We all got up to say goodbye and the woman came up to me and gave me a big warm hug. Her brother had walked to the door and she and I looked in each others eyes in that knowing way and I told her I wished her brother well and would be thinking of him. Friends and family need a different kind of support than the cancer survivor does.
I started the ride on an emotional high.
We finished eating and rolled out for another hot, hilly, and long day. We weren't concerned with our arrival time because we knew we had rooms and knew we would be able to find food in Austin late.
We started slowly and for the first part of the ride we took every chance to stop for cold drinks. We've been going through between six and eight liters daily and it's best but rarely cold.
We pulled into a little town called Sisterdale and stopped at the only place that appeared to have a cold drink. It was a bar with a cooler full of Gatorade. We each grabbed a bottle and went out front. There's a kind of motorcycle often referred to as a crotch rocket that is more road racer than chopper. There was a beautiful metallic maroon Suzuki 1300 with a sticker saying "Suicidal Tendencies" (the names of both a band and an attitude) parked out front. It was more a crotch missile. After a couple of minutes, a man came out of the bar and sat down with a cold one. He was a very serious and large guy. He was wearing a don't bother me expression and I was happy to honor it.
As we stood there with our drinks, an amazing scene played out. From our left, a man came running down the road next to a little girl on a new bicycle learning to ride for the first time. Her dad was hands off and you could see at that moment that she was getting it. It really is magical when you think about how the world is about to become bigger for a new young rider.
The little girl looked over at us and stared at our bikes and fashion choices. I gave her a big atta girl, two big thumbs up, and hollered at her to look where she was going. When she looked back to her left she steered left and dad was there to catch her. I applauded and then Chris joined in followed by the motorcyclist and her dad. It was joy for her and memories of the same joy for the rest of us. Her dad turned her around and they started down the road the other direction.
As Chris and I got ready to leave, the motorcyclist looked up and nodded a greeting. I said, "is that your ride?", nodding to the missile. He said, "yeah". I said, "that is a fine ride you've got there". He said, "it beats pedaling", in a deadpan. I said, "yeah, but the scenery goes by allot faster for you". He smiled and said, "you're right about that".
We began talking him about our ride. He was very interested and when he heard we were using the ride to do some good and raise some money for LAF's efforts at helping survivors he pulled out his wallet and grabbed a twenty dollar bill that he insisted we take. I said, "we aren't really prepared to accept cash contributions (the third time I've said tat so far). He insisted saying, "then buy yourselves some Gatorade or something. I want to help". I thanked him and introduced myself. He shook my hand and introduced himself as Fred. Not wanting to disappoint a man of Fred's stature I accepted the contribution. What we had during that experience were two of the most powerful elements for bringing people together. Youthful innocence and charitable efforts.
Thank you Fred!
Our meeting ended with Fred telling us we had allot more guts (he used a different word) than he did.
The rest of the ride was long and hot but I was heavily dosed on Karmic painkillers.
We pulled into the hotel lobby a little after 10:00 PM. We showered up and headed across the street for dinner. Ashleigh and Justin arrived at the hotel about ten minutes later and came and met us for dinner.
Yahoo! We're in Austin. Two full days off, 1667 miles of riding, over 58,000 feet of climbing and past halfway.
Maybe a massage later.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Day 22 Leakey, TX to Comfort, TX
May 31
Leakey, TX to Comfort, TX
89 Miles
3820 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1711
As a bonus, our room in Leakey had a full sized coffee maker with a permanent filter. Usually, if there's a coffee maker in the room it uses prepackaged coffee in a filter envelope. I Jones for my Peet's. If there's a microwave I'll boil water in cups and use my little camp press pot to make real coffee. This time I got to make it in a real coffee maker. We drank all twelve cups. That makes for an open eyed start to our day.
We got ready and rolled out into the street. I asked a man sitting on a bench on the sidewalk if he knew a breakfast spot. He pointed back the way we came and mumbled something that sounded like, "after the third light on the right". We turned around and headed that way. I thought for a minute that Leakey was a bigger town than I thought. Three traffic lights would make it a veritable city.
We rode back through the blinking yellow light at the intersection and I realized there was just this one light. About three doors down, on the right, we saw a little place called Nena's Café. The sign advertised German-American cuisine.
We parked the bikes and went inside. It was a very nice, cozy spot that looked like a house with several small tables in the front room. A gentleman seated us and we ordered various combinations of potato pancakes and eggs. It was delicious.
I noticed the interaction between the man and a woman, of a similar age, cooking in the kitchen. I thought them husband and wife and it was nice to see the love and respect they treated each other with.
At the end of our meal, Chris went outside to put on sunscreen and get ready. The man from the café also stepped out for something. The other diners had finished and gone leaving me alone with the cook. She came into the dining room and asked how everything was. I told her it was great!
She asked about what we were doing and I told her about our ride. I usually build up to the full story bit by bit. I guess I need to know they are interested before I share Deidre's story with them. We talked for awhile. The woman was very nice and was good at conversation. She told me about the couple that had been eating when we arrived. They were her neighbors and the day before they had returned from Houston where the gentleman had been receiving treatment for stomach cancer. The doctors had told him this week that there was no more they could do for him. The woman had called our hostess the day before to give her the news. They had just finished making arrangements at the funeral home for the inevitable.
Death is inevitable for us all. It is more immediate for some than others. I think maybe in the case of a married couple both people are preparing to die.
I asked the woman I was talking with her name and she handed me her card. Her name is Nena Artl and she is the proprietress of the café. I told her it was time for us to ride and asked for the check. She said, "consider breakfast my contribution to your efforts". I was truly touched. I really felt she understood. She said Leakey had hosted the Relay for Life, an American Cancer Society event, the week before. She said that their small town raised over $200,000 in the last year to fund the war against cancer.
I shook her hand and told her what a pleasure it had been talking with her and began to leave. I took her hand one more time and she gave me a hug full of love and wished us safe travels.
Nena was an exceptionally kind and caring person who warmed my heart.
Eat at Nena's Café when in Leakey and say hello for me.
Off we went for some mountain climbing. It would be a day that began with a climb like the one that we rode to get there the night before.
The night before, Walter, at the lodge, told us that the first six miles of our route was under construction and he would help us route around it in the morning if we wanted to avoid it. That whole part of Texas Hill Country is very, very popular with motorcyclists and he said they were all coming to town complaining about the six miles of torn up dirt road. We both grew up in Santa Fe and a little dirt doesn't scare us.
The climbing began shortly after the return of the pavement. The construction wasn't too bad at all. There was hardly any car traffic and no work going on so I think we got lucky.
We rode to Vanderpool and stopped for a brisket sandwich. So far, the brisket I've had has been out of refrigerators and warmed in microwaves. It has been excellent without exception.
We turned North at Vanderpool and started riding along the Guadalupe River. It started pretty wild with more game ranches but as we neared Hunt we began riding past riverside resorts and summer camps. I noticed many places offering cold storage for bagged game in the areas with the game ranches and hunt clubs.
It was very green and lush and was getting more so all the time. We rode past guest houses with mowed front lawns the size of football fields. It was a beautiful ride.
The river got wider and wider. I think we crossed it at least nine times. It was wide enough in some places for jet skis. We rode for fifty miles or more next to the river. What a treat. It seemed like we left the beautiful and wild but sometimes bleak dry plains of West Texas behind.
We got to Comfort and stopped to do a little laundry on our way to the Motel and dinner.
It was a glorious, hot and humid day.
More to come.
Leakey, TX to Comfort, TX
89 Miles
3820 ft of climbing
Map:
http://www.mapitpronto.com/index.cfm?fuseAction=routePlanner.viewDBRide&rideID=1711
As a bonus, our room in Leakey had a full sized coffee maker with a permanent filter. Usually, if there's a coffee maker in the room it uses prepackaged coffee in a filter envelope. I Jones for my Peet's. If there's a microwave I'll boil water in cups and use my little camp press pot to make real coffee. This time I got to make it in a real coffee maker. We drank all twelve cups. That makes for an open eyed start to our day.
We got ready and rolled out into the street. I asked a man sitting on a bench on the sidewalk if he knew a breakfast spot. He pointed back the way we came and mumbled something that sounded like, "after the third light on the right". We turned around and headed that way. I thought for a minute that Leakey was a bigger town than I thought. Three traffic lights would make it a veritable city.
We rode back through the blinking yellow light at the intersection and I realized there was just this one light. About three doors down, on the right, we saw a little place called Nena's Café. The sign advertised German-American cuisine.
We parked the bikes and went inside. It was a very nice, cozy spot that looked like a house with several small tables in the front room. A gentleman seated us and we ordered various combinations of potato pancakes and eggs. It was delicious.
I noticed the interaction between the man and a woman, of a similar age, cooking in the kitchen. I thought them husband and wife and it was nice to see the love and respect they treated each other with.
At the end of our meal, Chris went outside to put on sunscreen and get ready. The man from the café also stepped out for something. The other diners had finished and gone leaving me alone with the cook. She came into the dining room and asked how everything was. I told her it was great!
She asked about what we were doing and I told her about our ride. I usually build up to the full story bit by bit. I guess I need to know they are interested before I share Deidre's story with them. We talked for awhile. The woman was very nice and was good at conversation. She told me about the couple that had been eating when we arrived. They were her neighbors and the day before they had returned from Houston where the gentleman had been receiving treatment for stomach cancer. The doctors had told him this week that there was no more they could do for him. The woman had called our hostess the day before to give her the news. They had just finished making arrangements at the funeral home for the inevitable.
Death is inevitable for us all. It is more immediate for some than others. I think maybe in the case of a married couple both people are preparing to die.
I asked the woman I was talking with her name and she handed me her card. Her name is Nena Artl and she is the proprietress of the café. I told her it was time for us to ride and asked for the check. She said, "consider breakfast my contribution to your efforts". I was truly touched. I really felt she understood. She said Leakey had hosted the Relay for Life, an American Cancer Society event, the week before. She said that their small town raised over $200,000 in the last year to fund the war against cancer.
I shook her hand and told her what a pleasure it had been talking with her and began to leave. I took her hand one more time and she gave me a hug full of love and wished us safe travels.
Nena was an exceptionally kind and caring person who warmed my heart.
Eat at Nena's Café when in Leakey and say hello for me.
Off we went for some mountain climbing. It would be a day that began with a climb like the one that we rode to get there the night before.
The night before, Walter, at the lodge, told us that the first six miles of our route was under construction and he would help us route around it in the morning if we wanted to avoid it. That whole part of Texas Hill Country is very, very popular with motorcyclists and he said they were all coming to town complaining about the six miles of torn up dirt road. We both grew up in Santa Fe and a little dirt doesn't scare us.
The climbing began shortly after the return of the pavement. The construction wasn't too bad at all. There was hardly any car traffic and no work going on so I think we got lucky.
We rode to Vanderpool and stopped for a brisket sandwich. So far, the brisket I've had has been out of refrigerators and warmed in microwaves. It has been excellent without exception.
We turned North at Vanderpool and started riding along the Guadalupe River. It started pretty wild with more game ranches but as we neared Hunt we began riding past riverside resorts and summer camps. I noticed many places offering cold storage for bagged game in the areas with the game ranches and hunt clubs.
It was very green and lush and was getting more so all the time. We rode past guest houses with mowed front lawns the size of football fields. It was a beautiful ride.
The river got wider and wider. I think we crossed it at least nine times. It was wide enough in some places for jet skis. We rode for fifty miles or more next to the river. What a treat. It seemed like we left the beautiful and wild but sometimes bleak dry plains of West Texas behind.
We got to Comfort and stopped to do a little laundry on our way to the Motel and dinner.
It was a glorious, hot and humid day.
More to come.
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